We’ve just discovered why sous chef Ann Suk Miller’s Korean Short Rib Tacos are much talked-about. Under the guise of an unpretentious name, they’re now on special at Meritage in Philly’s Graduate Hospital area, having found their way from the now-closed Ansill in Queen Village. The practicality in the dish’s name is where the simplicity stops. The tacos are extraordinarily delicious.

Made from braised beef short ribs lathered in a spicy Korean chili sauce and topped with kimchi (spicy pickled cabbage) and served on a crispy flour tortilla, these Korean tacos are nothing short of amazing. Pleasantly spiced, the tacos go well with a glass of Sauvignon Blanc for the ultimate experience. What’s also unbelievable is the fact that they’re at the absurdly affordable price of only three dollars a piece. Ordering two or three or even half a dozen is still an absolute steal. While only on special for two weeks, we can only hope they become recurring characters alongside Meritage’s already-impressive cast.

We doubled up on our order of pork bites and went with the BBQ Pork Sliders, the same juicy pulled pork but in a more neutral barbecue sauce. They’re served on toasted brioche buns and Asian coleslaw. Unfortunately absent from creating a triple-header of pork goodness during our visit were the also-new Steamed Pork Buns with pickled Napa cabbage, Hoisin sauce and scallion.

Located on the southwest corner of 20th & Lombard, Meritage is open for dinner Tuesday through Thursday 5-10pm, and Friday through Saturday 5-11pm. Aside from the delectable pork bites we feasted upon, they feature a full menu of Asian-fusion goodness with a wine selection to support it.

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Meritage Restaurant & Wine Bar
500 S. 20th St. Philadelphia, PA 19103 (Google Map)
(215) 985-1922
Twitter: @MeritagePHL

Chef Jose Garces and Chef de Cuisine Dave Conn have brought a taste of San Sebastian to Philadelphia.  A tapas and wine bar modeled after the Basque region of northern Spain (purported to have the most bars per capita in the world), Tinto is a bit more upscale than traditional pintxos bars, casual dining and drinking establishments where people go from bar to bar, grazing their way through the night.  Spanish pintxos bars serve an array of small bites on bread – seafood, cured meats, ham, chorizo – all laid out on the counter for patrons to serve themselves.  Patrons collect the skewers and toothpicks from each small bite they eat and present them to a cashier in lieu of a bill from a server.

Tinto offers a number of bocadillos (sandwiches) at lunch and dinner; though dinner portions are actually smaller sandwiches.  Only the shortrib and oyster bocadillos are available on both menus.

The short rib bocadillo, a sandwich characterized by big flavor and tender, flaky meat, is the result of a complex braise composed of grain mustard, smoked paprika, Spanish beer, and some other secret ingredients.  It is served on a Metropolitan demi baguette with frisee, bits of crisp bacon, shaved asparagus, a cracked pepper caramel sauce that balances the savory meat, and a cool celery root aioli.

The fried oyster bocadillo features seasonally fresh oysters dusted with smoked paprika and fried golden crisp.  In summer, Tinto uses Wianno oysters from the cold waters of Cape Cod; in spring and fall, oysters are sourced locally; and in the winter, oysters are brought in from the West Coast.  The oysters are paired with a sweet pickled red onion escabeche and a spicy-tangy tartar sauce.  Fresh aioli with cornichons and capers is married with a Basquaise sauce flavored with choricero and espelette chiles that are traditionally used in the production of chorizo.

Tinto sources its meats, seafood and produce as locally as they can, working with local farmer co-ops to get seasonal ingredients like Jersey tomatoes in the summer.  The menu has evolved since opening in 2007, incorporating modern American influences using Basque flavors and techniques.  At the end of the night, Tinto’s staff gets to enjoy what’s left of the braised shortrib, as new pieces are cooked fresh each day.  Chef Conn gets a smile on his face talking about the occasional 2-foot sandwich he wolfs down after the restaurant closes.  He also enjoys falafel from Mama’s Vegetarian and a roast pork sandwich from George’s.

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When we first heard about El Camino Real opening in the former location of Deuce in Northern Liberties, we were excited for the south of the border inspired Texas barbecue and Mexican menu. Philadelphia is severely lacking in the smoked meat department and here at the Unbreaded offices we sure love us some barbecue brisket. Owned and operated by Owen Kamihira of the wonderful Bar Ferdinand just across the way, El Camino Real is perfectly decorated and noisy just like a higher end watering hole. The menu is divided into two subheadings – Mexico and Texas with sandwiches only offered on the latter (although isn’t a burrito a sandwich?).

The Wagyu Brisket and Beef Short Rib sandwiches are both slow cooked in the smoker over applewood and served on large slabs of Texas toast with a choice of regular or spicy house barbecue sauce on the side. The brisket was thickly sliced and succulent, but lacked that smoky character and slow cooked flavor. The short rib came sliced slightly differently, in thicker yet small patches and seemed a bit more robust in flavor, but the meat was surprisingly overcooked and tough to the bite. Both sandwiches suffered from collapse due to the overly soft bread, which quickly turned into an even bigger disaster after soaking up the immense amounts of sauce we used to add flavor to the bland meat. The sandwiches did arrive literally minutes after our order was placed and it’s questionable whether or not the meat was sliced to order, or sitting in a warming tray. The fries were crispy and tasted fresh but were far too over seasoned for our taste.

It would be unfair to rate El Camino Real as a whole based on the sandwiches, simply because there are so many other offerings on the menu. Unfortunately for us, the sandwiches did not impress nor did they satisfy our hunger for Texas barbecue. Next time, we’d go for the burrito.

Get your sandwich on:

El Camino Real
1040 N. 2nd Street Philadelphia, PA 19123 (Google Map)

Table 31 is the steakhouse in the Comcast Center, owned by chef Chris Scarduzio, Georges Perrier’s partner on the abruptly closed Brasserie Perrier.  The decor is decidedly modern, with dark wood offsetting vividly illuminated stained glass – bright blue and red at the bar, and red, orange and yellow colored panels throughout the 3-floor restaurant.

The signature Table 31 short rib burger is the kind of meat-on-meat extravaganza that really presents something special.  The juicy ground sirloin burger is paired with a portion of braised beef short ribs from the entrée menu, then topped grilled mushrooms, melted gruyere, lettuce, tomato and chives on a toasted sesame brioche roll.  It needed no ketchup.   Served with homemade salt and pepper fries.

Not cheap at $16, but worth it.

Get your sandwich on:

Table 31
1701 JFK Boulevard Philadelphia, PA 19103 (Google Map)