Redefined and refreshing dishes seem to be the main theme at Mémé, the eight month old French bistro by David Katz. The 32-year-old New Jersey native entered the Philadelphia scene in 1997, cooking at Salt, M Restaurant, Avenue B and a short stint at Silk City upon its reopening. After years of technical French cooking, Katz has approached his first wholly-owned venture from a simpler, more down to Earth angle, one very reminiscent of his own personal demeanor. According to him, he has retired the technical chops and focused more on locally sourced ingredients and bold, rustic flavors.

Don’t let our modest description fool you though, the offerings on the recently launched Spring menu at Mémé boast creativity and excitement. Take for instance the Foie Gras Burger, the only sandwich on the menu, that drew us here in the first place. Katz explains his concept, “Everyone does a burger these days, so we thought we’d take ingredients we love like foie gras, and recreate the sandwich in a different way.” The liver is cured for three days in a salt and sugar solution and never seared, to preserve its integrity and flavor, then formed into a thick, round patty. A duck prosciutto which is also cured in house is sliced thin, resembling bacon, and topped with cracklings (golden brown skin) for a slight crunchy texture. The sandwich is served on a toasted brioche bun from Schripp’s bakery which is spread with a sweet but tangy red onion marmalade, speared with cornichons and a side of waffle chips. A bite reveals the perfect blend of sweet and savory, the foie gras melts in your mouth and duck bacon adds just the right amount of salt to counter the marmalade. The toasty brioche, not too spongy or crunchy, brings a flavor complexity of its own. Tasty as it is, the foie gras burger is so rich and decadent, for some it will serve as a delicious novelty, a once in a while treat. This is not a bad thing, as Mémé has so much more to offer returning diners.

Despite Mémé’s seemingly perfect fit for the Fitler Square neighborhood, simple dishes with panache, Katz is a lover of the working man’s food, namely sandwiches. He favors only the best around Philadelphia, naming John’s Roast Pork for his favorite cheesesteak and roast pork, Texas Wieners and Charlie’s in Folsom for a cheeseburger. He is tired of the abnormally large nine ounce burgers that have been wildly popular, insisting “You can’t challenge the integrity of the bread”, and describing the perfect cheeseburger as one that is thin, and cooked on a griddle in its own fat. Here’s a guy who calls a traditional Chicago hot dog the “hot dog hoagie”, only further implying that simple is better. His favorite sandwich to cook at home besides a cheeseburger? A well toasted grilled cheese on white bread with cheddar or American.

The menu at Mémé changes throughout the seasons and the Foie Gras Burger won’t be there for long. Still, David Katz is always conceptualizing, tinkering away at creating the best flavors with the best ingredients. What’s next in the way of sandwiches at Mémé? Well besides the scrapple, egg and cheese with pickled jalapeños served for Saturday brunch, Katz envisions his own take on the Italian hoagie, complete with foie gras of course.

Mémé
2201 Spruce Street Philadelphia, PA 19103 (Google Map)

Christine Nunn, chef and owner of Picnic Caterers in Emerson, NJ was recently taken aback after receiving a threatening letter from Farm Sanctuary, a “farm animal protection organization”. The reason Nunn was picked as a target was for her use of foie gras in a dish at the Ultimate Chef Bergen County Finals. Foie gras has been under fire some time now by animal rights activists, leading to picketing of restaurants, a 2 year ban in Chicago (which was recently lifted) and plans to ban the sale in the entire state of California starting in 2012.

Debate aside, threats and blackmail are not cool and Christine Nunn sent a letter to Farm Sanctuary and decided to show her dislike for the actions in the most tasteful way possible: a sandwich. The “Foie You” consists of foie gras, smoked duck breast and sliced pears topped with balsamic blackberry jam atop a crossaint.

Unfortunately, these incredibly delicious looking sandwiches were made available to the public on April 21st, and are all gone. We applaud Chef Nunn for her creativity and decision to use her cooking skills to fight for her rights.

[Via Off The Broiler]

Unbreaded’s Ben Greenberg contributed to this review.

The shiny-new Ladder 15 has a warm, industrial feel and an imaginative menu that will surely transform this former working firehouse into a different kind of hot spot.  The 100-seat space is a combination of steel, brick, stone and rich mahogany, (and plasma behind the bar) complete with vaulted ceiling, fireplace, red walls and a striking custom chandelier.  Owner Max Tucker, who also owns Mad River restaurants, tapped friend Chef Mike Stollenwerk to design the menu.  Chef Stollenwerk, whose quaint Bella Vista Little Fish restaurant has received national acclaim, worked with Chef Ann Campbell (formerly at White Dog Café) to bring upscale pub fare to what Stollenwerk called “a sandwich obsessed city.”

What immediately caught our attention was their signature sandwich: corned beef on a Philly soft pretzel.  The lightly crisped pretzel braid was remarkably delicious and impossibly fresh (delivered from Philly Pretzel Factory next door) and did not overwhelm the sandwich.  The corned beef, made on site and served warm, was cut in paper-thin strips (though not especially lean), and paired with melted gruyere cheese.  A robust whole grain mustard added a sharp zing and in-your-face flavor.  One point of note, the sandwich meat was not the traditional red corned beef; it was brown and tasted more like a brisket than delicatessen-style corned beef.

The burger had a lot of good things going for it.  The prime sirloin was juicy and well-seasoned, with a rich and creamy smoked paprika mayonnaise, melted manchego cheese and a sweet red onion marmalade cooked in orange juice, balsamic vinegar and honey.  There was one element that they will still need to tweak: the bread. Served on thick-cut grilled sourdough, the bread was somewhat unwieldy and did not allow a comprehensive bite of the whole burger.  The kitchen is still getting its sea legs, so we hope they can work out that detail before the big crowds start to pour in.

The duck breast sandwich served up thinly sliced meat and melted brie on a large, hearty English muffin.  The meat was cooked to medium and very tender, not a dry hunk of breast as is often the case with duck entrees.  The execution and ample portion size far exceeds the price point on this sandwich.  The only opportunity to develop it further might be in the moustarda, which did not hold up to the brie.

The smoked mushroom VLT wins points for its dramatic presentation and for its fresh, vibrant taste.  Four pieces are stacked high and skewered, served on thick slices of Metropolitan Bakery multigrain bread.  The smoked portabello was moist and tender, yielding easily to the bite.  Juicy tomato, crisp lettuce and matchstick potato sticks rounded out the fillings, but the star of this show may very well be the mustard.  The spicy, vinegary twang really worked well with the hearty bread and fresh vegetables.

Overall, the sandwiches were well conceived and skillfully executed.  If they can maintain consistency with the details like keeping the meat moist and tender, and if they are able to solve their burger bread issue, Ladder 15 will definitely be a top sandwich bar.

Unbreaded’s Q&A With Mike Stollenwerk:

Unbreaded: Where did the pretzel sandwich come from?
Mike Stollenwerk:We wanted to create a signature Philadelphia sandwich that wasn’t a cheesesteak.  So a soft pretzel was the logical next step, and we get them fresh from our friends next door.

UB: Where do you like to go in Philadelphia to get sandwiches?
MS: John’s Roast Pork – the cheesesteak or the pork, they’re both the best.

UB: What kind of sandwich do you make for yourself at home?
MS: A nearly raw poached egg on toast with whatever kind of pork product I have on hand.

Gallery

Ladder 15
1528 Sansom Street, Philadelphia, PA 19102 (Google Map)