There’s certainly no shortage of fatty-tastic burgers in the city, nor a shortage of great, innovative kitchens. In honor of National Hamburger Month, we took a look at some burgerless menus and decided to challenge some of Philly’s best chefs to create a unique burger worthy of their menu space. Each week in May we’ll hit you with an exclusive interview and review of each handcrafted burger.

Up first: Chef David Katz, owner of rustic-casual restaurant Mémé (2201 Spruce Street).

Katz, a self-described American hamburger traditionalist, accepted his mission and turned out an out-of-the-ordinary Middle Eastern style sandwich, inspired by ingredients left over from a recent Moroccan barbecue. He said he’d recently invited some friends over for a cookout in his upstairs digs, resulting in a few odds and ends. After throwing a quick dinner together with the remaining bits the next day, inspiration struck.

The Moccocan Burger starts with a 6oz meat patty called kefta, a mix of ground beef and lamb traditionally grilled over charcoals. The ground meat is blended with cumin, coriander, parsley, cilantro, cinnamon and cayenne pepper, adding some deep and complex Middle Eastern flavors.

Using recipes passed down through his family, Katz finished it off a hot pepper tomato paste (“an all-purpose Moroccan condiment”) and a cold traditional carrot salad, dressed with lemon and olive oil. This burger plays with flavors and textures well; in one bite you have the warm and distinct flavor of the kefta, in another the cool acidic crunch of carrots. We loved the pepper spread the most, which was spicy and robust enough that it left our lips tingling long after we had finished.

“It’s not entirely traditional,” said Katz. “But this is pretty damn good.”

Notice something different about these photos? That’s right – no glossy, egg-heavy brioche globes here. Everything is nestled between a soft, flour-dusted Snowflake bun, at the chef’s insistence.

“It’s an old school American bun,” he said. “Brioche is bullshit. Just because something is the most trendy doesn’t make it the best.”

You can catch the Moroccan Burger on the Mémé menu all week, for about $8.

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Mémé
2201 Spruce Street Philadelphia, PA 19103 (Google Map)

At Philadelphia’s acclaimed Cypriot restaurant Kanella, you will not find fusion, which Chef Konstantinos Pitsillides calls “confusion.”  Rather, you will experience the diverse culinary influences of the world cultures that have occupied and settled the chef’s native Cyprus over the centuries: Turkish, French, Venetian, Arab, North African, English and Greek, each of whom have left their imprint on the island nation.  Chef Pitsillides strives for authenticity, simplicity and freshness that reflect his passion for traditional ingredients and preparation.  Sandwiches are available at lunch, served Thursday through Sunday.

The grilled tuna sandwich exemplifies a North African influence (Morocco, Tunisia) with a robust spice rub that is paired with preserved lemon, olives, capers, garlic, slow roasted tomatoes and cilantro on a 7-grain roll (the same roll is used for each sandwich.)  The lamb sandwich offers a slow roasted shoulder or leg that is sliced thin then fried, served with spinach, scallions, dill and Greek feta.  The grilled Haloumi and Lounza sandwich is like a Cypriot ham & cheese.  A traditional cheese made of goat and sheep’s milk is grilled and tossed with tomatoes and a vinaigrette, paired with a thick-cut slice of smoked Canadian bacon.

All of Kanella’s meats and cheeses are organic, and the fish is always wild, never farmed.  Chef Pitsillides values nose-to-tail cooking because using the entire animal shows respect.  His commitment to Mediterranean cuisine is, in his view, the opposite of a trend; it is a stable, healthy way of life.  And aside from Kanella, where he thinks the value for the price is virtually unmatched, Chef thinks the best sandwiches come from your own kitchen.

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Kanella
1001 Spruce St. – Philadelphia, PA 19107 (Google Map)

On a sunny corner of South Street that straddles Washington West and Bella Vista, seemingly miles removed from the blaring car stereos a few blocks to the east, Supper’s new lunch menu boldly re-imagines classic sandwiches with a welcoming, come as you are attitude.

Acclaimed Chef Mitch Prensky strives to create “the ultimate version” of iconic sandwiches, adding his own stamp to a Reuben, a French Dip, a Hot Dog and a Banh Mi.  Having once worked as Sous Chef for the lunch service at Bobby Flay’s Mesa Grill (in addition to his classic French training and New York fine dining experience,) Chef Prensky truly loves the action at lunch and needed to get his ideas for sandwiches out onto plates.  Now available Monday through Saturday, Supper’s lunch menu has some serious sandwich action.

Supper’s version of the Reuben is served on Famous 4th Street rye bread, sliced thick and brushed with bacon fat and a mustard aoili.  Fried carnitas-style pork belly is tossed with thousand island dressing, and toasted with cooked sauerkraut under a layer of gruyere.  Chef tops the open-faced sandwich with apple chutney because pork, apple and gruyere work so well together, even when served as a reuben with a side of pastrami chips.

The Banh Mi features crispy fried Malaysian-inspired squid with bits of spicy Sichuan sausage, heaps of cilantro, lettuce and pickled peppers on a baguette that was baked fresh a few blocks away at Ba Le Bakery, paired with five spice chips.

The Supper Dog is made in house from 100% pork shoulder – “all killer, no filler” – on a house baked, buttered bun.  Wrapped in bacon and deep fried, it is served with grain mustard, BBQ onions, kraut and buttermilk fried pickles.  The Lamb French Dip, served with Herbs de Provence chips, is made from house-prepared lamb pastrami and lamb jus, is served with feta and olives on a baguette cut on a bias to help with the dipping.

The menu also features a burger borrowed from the dinner menu with horseradish cream, roasted tomatoes, caramelized onions, gruyere and a side of duck fat fingerlings. The lobster roll is served as a tried and true classic and paired with Old Bay chips.  Traditional fresh steamed lobster is mixed with lemon aioli, chopped celery, salt and pepper on a top-loaded buttered bun.

Chef Prensky is openly enthusiastic about sandwiches because in his opinion, the layers of ingredients combine to make each bite the perfect bite.  Among his local favorites are John’s Roast Pork, Sarcone’s, Jim’s Steaks, Ba Le Bakery, even a late night panini at Old Nelson.  He stresses that people should not overlook the bread when making sandwiches – you want the right type, the right thickness, and sometimes, like with their house made charcuterie, older bread can better than fresh.

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Supper
926 South Street, Philadelphia, PA 19147 (Google Map)

Feel the need to spice up your lunch in the Rittenhouse Square area? Head below ground to Argan. There, owner Mounir Draissi will build from scratch your customized sandwich. With six meat options and three vegetarian spreads to pair with a choice of three (of about 10) vegetable toppings, combinations are almost infinite.

Stuffed in the home-made semolina-based Moroccan flatbread, the Slow Cooked Lamb is topped with grilled peppers and onions, marinated carrots, and slices of cucumber. The bread absorbs the saffron broth perfectly and doesn’t break. If brave enough, ask for a side of Shekshuka and lather it inside your sandwich. The flavors of the fire-roasted peppers, tomatoes, and garlic will make your lunch even more delectable.

Finish your meal with an authentic Moroccan mint tea and let its aroma transport you to Casablanca before coming back to reality. Then go back to work while thinking about what to have in your sandwich for your next visit at Argan.

Argan
132 S. 17th Street – Philadelphia, PA 19103 (Google Map)

A recent tasting event brought us to Divan Turkish Kitchen in the Graduate Hospital neighborhood, and we found ourselves wondering why we haven’t been before. Turkish cooking, particularly the sandwiches, is heavily influenced by the Middle East, as evidenced by the adana kebab. Ground lamb is infused with spices, chopped red pepper and grilled to achieve a smoky flavor with a crisp outside. Wrapped in lavash with lettuce, tomato, onion, and a hot chili sauce, you’ll want to dip it into the refreshing yogurt served on the side.

Divan Turkish Kitchen
918 S. 22nd Street – Philadelphia, PA 19146 (Google Map)

There has been an explosion in popularity of Indian food takeout in Philadelphia in recent years, and all routes trace back to one catalyst: Munish Narula. The Wharton MBA carrying Narula has extensive experience in the food industry, which he harnessed to open Tiffin, a mostly delivery and takeout based restaurant in Northern Liberties. The concept of Tiffin is affordable yet extremely flavorful Indian cooking, delivered to your door quickly, and with love. Tiffin, which now has two locations, on Girard Avenue, and in Mt. Airy, has added an entirely new concept to its ever expanding empire.

With the help of chef and partner Hari Nayak, Narula has developed Tiffin Etc. an Indian pizza and sandwich shop. Drawing from street foods found in several parts of India, Tiffin Etc. continues the tradition of serving fresh and exciting new flavors at a great price. Narula and Nayak both pride themselves on the innovation they have accomplished with the menu at Tiffin Etc., these foods have typically not been done before in the U.S., and especially not Philadelphia. The pizzas are all based on traditional Indian dishes, but everything had to be reformulated and tested until the right balance of sauce, cheese and toppings was achieved. Favorites like the Murg Makhani and Lal Mirch (think chicken tikka masala) and the Paneer Tikka and Hari Mirch (mint-based pesto sauce with fried cottage cheese) are perfectly executed, and baked in a traditional pizza oven on a naan-like thin crust.

As beautiful and delicious as the pizzas are, it is the kati rolls that we were interested in. These wrapped sandwiches from the streets of Calcutta have grown in popularity in cities like New York and San Francisco. Chef Nayak however, has been displeased with the versions he has found elsewhere, and worked to perfect the flavors of the fillings and the denseness of the flat bread. The Seekh Kebab is a skewer of lamb, with a crunchy skin and juicy, spiced inside while the Murg Tikka contains a chicken kebab and a sweet, aromatic chutney. A vegetarian option, Masala Aloo boasts tender, marinated potatoes and fresh herbs. All of of the kati rolls are served with pickled onion and a mint chutney inside, both which play off the flavors of the meat or vegetable filling, never overpowering them. The brilliance of Nayak’s kati rolls lies in the egg-coated flat bread, which is cooked in the tandoori oven, giving it a flaky consistency that is strong enough to hold together until the last bite.

The inventive sandwich and pizza creations at Tiffin Etc. are a welcome addition to the Philadelphia food scene. Inexpensive, quick eats are growing in popularity at a rapid rate, and with these slow-cooked Indian flavors you are getting more than you pay for. Focusing now on the opening of his third Tiffin location in Elkins Park and another in Cherry Hill, Munish Narula is looking ahead to the future, where he’d like to see several of his Indian infused pizza shops on more corners in the area. Chef Nayak is persistent about serving high end Indian street food, made from scratch with fresh ingredients and consistent quality. This winning formula could very well, spur a trend, and with Munish Narula at the helm, we wouldn’t be surprised at all.

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Tiffin Etc.
710 W. Girard Avenue – Philadelphia, PA (Google Map)

Kadima means “let’s move” or “keep going” in Hebrew, which Chef Michael Solomonov believes captures the essence of sandwiches: quick; in and out; continue on with your day.  Maybe that’s why 95% of lunch customers order a sandwich at Zahav.  Or perhaps it is the incomparable value of eating a James Beard acclaimed chef’s food for just $10.

Israeli cuisine is decidedly more robust than falafel and hummus.  In fact, Israeli food is a combination of dozens of world influences brought to the region by individuals and communities that have come to settle in the Holy Land.  Romanian and Balkan food coexists with Yemeni and Moroccan cuisine; as immigrants flood into Israel, they bring their native cultures and flavors with them and Israel has developed a diverse and multicultural national cuisine.

Laffa bread, which is similar to lavash or pita, is baked to order in a 700-degree wood burning oven that gives it a unique character and flavor: aerated, puffy, dense but not delicate.  The wood oven, which is seldom used anymore even in Israel, imparts a soft but crisp texture to the bread.  The dough is not totally uniform – thumbprints are a must in order to get that bubbled, crackled texture that is darkened in spots but still pliable, so that it bends and stretches as it rips apart.

The sandwich menu includes the Gibraltar (swordfish), the Turk (ground beef), the Galil (eggplant), the Sabra (chicken), and Monsieur Merguez (lamb).  Though the featured ingredients change, each sandwich is fired over screaming hot coals and served with Zahav’s speckled green tahina full of herbs (parsley, dill, chives, mint), sesame paste, garlic, cumin, lemon juice and salt.  The creamy spread has a deeply nutty and vibrantly herbaceous flavor, full of healthy natural oil.  Sandwiches are served with well-done Israeli pickles.

The Sabra consists of grilled chicken skewers, or shishlik, that are marinated in an onion marinade that tenderizes the meat and caramelizes over the hot coals.  The sliced onions are seasoned with sumac that gives a mildly sour flavor that plays off the sweetness and smokiness of the grilled chicken.

Zahav’s juicy North African Merguez lamb kebab is made with garlic and a spicy harissa, and is served with matbucha (a cooked pepper and tomato salsa) and the creamy herbed tahina.  The richness of the meat is balanced by the depth of the two sauces and the dense but light laffa that crackles with each bite.

Chef Solomonov revealed a few details about his next project, Percy Street Barbecue, scheduled to open this October.  The Texas BBQ restaurant will be very casual with a Southern bluesy feel.  Percy Street has two wood smokers being delivered from Texas so the meats will get that unmistakable smokiness that comes from slow cooking over oak and mesquite for 24 hours.  Percy Street will specialize in dry BBQ, notably brisket, and also pork shoulder and pork belly (which we hope turns into a sandwich.)  Homemade sausages, spare ribs, and chef Erin O’Shea’s corn bread got our mouths watering, and the promise of Yards Root Beer on draught nearly buckled our knees.

And when he’s not working on barbecue or eating a simple hummus and laffa sandwich at Zahav, Chef Solomonov enjoys the Vietnamese sandwiches from Viet Huong, particularly the char broiled pork banh mi.

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Zahav
237 St. James Place, Philadelphia PA 19106 (Google Map)

They call it the ćevapčići- a traditional Balkan sandwich, that consists of several types of grilled minced meat and spices. Popular street-food in Eastern Europe, this flavorful little number has also made quite a name for itself as summer festival street-food here in Chicago. As noted on the cheeky banner hanging above the meat stand, this ćevapčići- pronounced “che-vap-chee-chee,” is a deliciously crafted combination of 1/2 part cow, 1/4 part sheep, 1/4 pig, embarrassing amounts of garlic, and well-seasoned with salt and pepper, topped with a generous amount of tangy, boldly-textured (and colored!) red pepper and eggplant sauce, served atop a grilled pita. I believe the sauce- which was mildly overpowering but so tasty I didn’t mind- is a unique Americanized accompaniment, as my research on traditional Balkan ćevapčići noted yogurt, onion and even cottage cheese as toppings. Next time I order it, I may ask for the sauce on the side- like, a whole jar of it- to better taste the unique ćevapčići blend on this round, and then bring home the tangy goodness for some plain old burgers that could use the extra love.

I encountered this particular gem at a street festival in Wicker Park over the weekend, and am certainly glad I did so at the BEGINNING of summer, as I haven’t found a restaurant in town that has it as a staple menu item, so I get the feeling it truly is “festival food,” as fleeting as summer here in Chicago. Apparently, it has a cult-like following in town, having overheard such loving heckles while awaiting mine, such as the “man-bear-pig,” and “I get mine with 1/8 kitten,” among many various acknowledgments of its unique blend. To this I say, call it whatever you like, cause I’m calling it damn, frickin’ delicious.