• In a review of a D.C. area shop that serves Philly style sandwiches, the roast pork gets a shout out, and the props it deserves. [Washington Post via The Illadelph]

• A delicious combination of sweet and savory, how could you go wrong with smoked ham, turkey, and Swiss on French toast with berry jam for dipping? [Coconut & Lime]

• David Snyder finds Daniel Stern’s MidAtlantic lacking some focus and execution but the housemade beef neck, short rib, and brisket hot dogs boast “brilliant flavor and texture.” [Philadelphia Citypaper]

• Rick Nichols paid a visit to Michael Schulson’s Sampan, and can’t stop talking about the 24-hour marinated pork belly banh mi. [Philadelphia Inquirer]

Submitted by Unbreaded reader Shane D. Have a sandwich you love? Submit it to us and we’ll post it on the site.

Philadelphia might be the home of the cheesesteak, but again, and again, we are seeing a rise in popularity of the Italian roast pork sandwich. According to Shane D., you don’t have to be downtown to find a delicious take on this sandwich:

Wasko’s, located at 223 Gay St. in Phoenixville, Pa. has, in my opinion, one of the best roast pork sandwiches in Chester County. I’m a regular customer and have consumed a number of the sandwiches there (the Ultimate Italian, Hot Italian and meatball), but by far the roast pork is the marquee item. It starts with a great, fresh roll from the Conshohocken Bakery. Jim Wasko, the proprietor, then lines the roll with some fresh onion slices before dipping each slice of pork au jus, but that’s not the end of it. The sandwich is then topped with sharp provolone and placed in the oven until the cheese melts. The final touch is the roasted long, hot Italian peppers, which are made in-house. You could opt for broccoli rabe instead, but I prefer the hots. The end result is absolutely brilliant! Other options for the sandwich include getting it juicy (I usually go dry), but if you’re in the Phoenixville area, I definitely recommend it. Also, if pork isn’t your choice of meat, I’ve heard that the prime rib sandwich is great.

This is the first time we’ve heard of a roast pork being placed in an oven, a brilliant idea for that perfect gooey, melted cheese and toasty bread.

Wasko’s
223 Gay Street – Phoenixville, PA 19460 (Google Map)

When your family’s been selling roast pork sandwiches for four generations, and you’ve got a successful shop with a great location, it can be hard to make any changes.  DiNic’s roast pork sandwich is a best-seller and winner of dozens of awards and “best of” mentions.  The formula works.  But Joe Nicolosi knows that the business thrives by improving what you do; learning, and making adjustments.  And no change speaks louder than the upgraded version of the classic: DiNic’s Italian pulled pork sandwich.

A braised cousin of the roast pork, the pulled pork is marinated for a day with spices and fresh aromatics, then browned and slow cooked till the meat falls off the bone, simmered in the same natural stock as the roast pork, plus some wine and tomato sauce.  The result is a rich flavor and flaky wet texture that saturates the bread but never gets soggy.

Joe takes pride in continuing a tradition that began when his great-grandfather roasted the pork from his South Philadelphia butcher shop at the holidays, and has continued on through the years through various incarnations of DiNic’s.  (DiNic = DiClaudio + Nicolosi, the original sandwich shop partners at 10th & Oregon.)  The roast pork and roast beef recipes are generations old, but still, Joe constantly tweaks the balance between moister meat and a richer stock.

Working alongside his father Tommy since he was five years old, Joe makes the roast pork sandwiches with a focus on good basics: a PA farm fresh ham roasted to medium with garlic, onion, rosemary and oher seasoning, making a flavorful jus in the roasting pan.  Cooled and sliced thin, the roast pork is served with provolone and hot peppers, provolone and spinach, or provolone and broccoli rabe with a garlicky kick.

DiNic’s is about real cooking, where everything is from scratch, anti-commerical, in step with what Joe sees as a slow foods trend.  Much of the produce and meats come from just steps down the market at Iovine’s and from Martin’s butcher shop.  Another local vendor provides farm fresh prime hanging beef.  His bread, from longtime friend Danny DiGiampietro’s South Philadelphia bakery, is closer to what bread was like 50 years ago — crusty and crisp, not the pillowy soft hoagie rolls more commonly used today.  Joe believes it is important to educate yourself; stay fresh; and with a nod to the past, continue to push forward.

In his off-hours, Joe enjoys a good burger at places like Sketch Burger, Good Dog, and Monk’s.  He also goes for the shortrib bocadillos at Tinto.

With a strong base of local regulars, and a surge with every convention, DiNic’s is poised to continue their legacy of producing one of Philadelphia’s most loved sandwiches, and also to start a new chapter, where new sandwiches express the passion and the commitment to learning, innovating and improving what you do.

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DiNic’s
Reading Terminal Market
12th St & Arch St, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania 19107 (Google Map)

For John Bucci Jr. (“John John” to his friends) making sandwiches isn’t just a job, it’s a lifelong family tradition. But a recent battle with leukemia came close to ending it all. Thankfully, with the help and support from relatives, customers, and a successful bone marrow transplant, Bucci is back at the grill, building up his health, a few days at a time.

Dominic Bucci opened John’s Roast Pork in 1930, a tiny shack on the corner of Snyder and Weccacoe that pumped out juicy pork and meatball sandwiches to the workers from the surrounding factories. The shop was eventually handed down to John Bucci Sr. who ran it night and day with his wife Vonda. The menu slowly expanded to include breakfast sandwiches and cheesesteaks, which Bucci was never really fond of making, they were added due to customer demand.

After the passing of John Bucci Sr. in 1991, both John Jr. and his mother took over the business, using the same exact family recipe, and pouring love and attention to detail into every sandwich. The combination of seasonings and exact method of cooking the pork is so secretive that only John, his mother, and niece know it. Not even John’s wife Vickie, or Vince Long, the shop’s manager have been told, something that they aren’t visibly bothered by, it’s just that special.

The roast pork starts as a 25 pound Hatfield picnic shoulder that is butchered and butterflied, then rubbed with the family’s secret recipe consisting of only fresh, never dried herbs. Roasted in the luncheonette’s oven for four hours, the drippings are collected for use in gravy. When finished, the meat rests overnight and is sliced fresh every morning on a deli slicer. It is then simmered in the saporous jus, waiting to be served to customers, piping hot. The recommended way to eat a roast pork according to the Buccis is with aged provolone, hot peppers, and onions. Those who prefer greens on their sandwich, won’t find broccoli rabe on the menu. Vonda believes it’s way too bitter and overpowers the flavors of the pork; look for sauteed spinach instead, it’s garlicky sweetness, is more complimentary to the meat.

When John Jr. returned to the shop after leaving St. Joe’s, he focused on developing a bigger and better cheesesteak. “The roast pork sandwich is our bread and butter, but Philly is known for the cheesesteak, so we had to make ours the best one” says Bucci. And that he did, winning numerous awards including being named number one by Craig LaBan and Glen Macnow, the sandwich has also received accolades from Esquire, Gourmet, and even the prestigious James Beard Foundation.

With a strong focus on quality, John uses rich, sliced sirloin, a whole twelve ounces per sandwich. Chopped onions are laid on the grill first, the meat on top to prevent it from burning and drying out, also allowing the aromas and juices from the onions to permeate the beef. Bucci makes a point to leave the meat alone as it cooks, “It’s already dead, if you keep whacking it with the spatulas, it’s only going to dry out.” Evidence of Bucci’s love for cheese lies in every sandwich, as the aged provolone, or American is laid on thick, five slices in all. You won’t find a can of whiz here, both John and his mother despise the artificial stuff. The most popular steak is the traditional, provolone and fried onions, but John recommends trying the Milano with roasted tomatoes, garlic and provolone or the bruschetta steak, which you are sure not to find elsewhere.

The prodigious sandwiches coming off the grill need bread that can act as a strong foundation, while staying soft, and tender to the bite. Bucci swears by Carangi Baking Company, explaining that these are the only rolls he trusts to sop up the meat’s juices, while staying fully intact. The weather plays a big factor in the bread order, Bucci is dead on at figuring out how many customers will arrive whether it’s rain, shine or snow, but when the bread runs out, the doors are closed for the day. An oft voiced complaint is about the hours at John’s, the grill is turned off at 2:30 and the family leaves at 3:00 on the dot. Your best bet is to head on over right before or after the lunch rush, or send someone down to pick up a bunch for the office.

With emotion pouring through his voice, John recalls how thankful he is for his family and the many customers that wrote him letters while in the hospital. Recovering slowly, but surely, he hopes to return full-time to the grill in six to eight weeks and continue his family’s legacy. A new lease on life has breathed an air of exuberance into John John’s demeanor. The once jokingly dubbed “Pork Nazi” vows to never scream or yell in the shop again. We can only imagine that the man upstairs must really love sandwiches.

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John’s Roast Pork
14 Snyder Avenue – Philadelphia, PA 19148 (Google Map)

Submitted by Unbreaded reader Mike M., whose blog Main Line Dine covers restaurants and food in Philadelphia’s western suburbs.  Have a sandwich you love? Submit it to us and we’ll post it on the site.

Much like the cheesesteak, the Roast Pork Italian is a revered sandwich in the Philadelphia area; just hearing the name conjures images of thinly sliced, juicy pork sidled next to piquant provolone cheese and mounds of garlicky, wilted greens, served at hallowed counters Tony Lukes, John’s and DiNics. “Porchetta Aruzzese”, on the other hand, isn’t exactly household material. It is a sandwich made of the Abruzzo-inspired pork roast, however, served at Luigi and Giovanni’s in Newtown Square, that wins my pick for best roast pork sandwich in the area.

To make said sandwich creation, a whole pig is de-boned, seasoned with six fresh herbs, and roasted (with skin intact for extra flavor) overnight in a brick oven rotisserie, then pulled/chopped and mixed with an Italian-style gravy. The cooking method for this pork renders the fat slowly, creating meat that is tender, juicy and extremely flavorful. Pulling the meat instead of slicing it gives it a texture more like Carolina Barbecue. Once the meat is ready, a Sarcone’s-style sesame semolina roll is scooped (to remove excess insides, if desired), layered with sharp provolone and house-made roasted red peppers, and piled high with steaming pork.

These sandwiches are available on the patio outside Luigi and Giovanni’s Italian Market on weekends only, until they run out. Chicken cutlet and Italian sausage sandwiches are also available. Though it is mostly a takeout business, there are a few small tables available if you just can’t wait for sandwich bliss.

Inside the store, there’s also a deli that serves great traditional hoagies and sandwiches on a variety of breads. In addition, Luigi and Giovanni’s is an excellent butcher shop and Italian market, featuring a wide variety of meats, cheeses, breads, olive oils, prepared foods and other imported items.

Luigi and Giovanni’s
3601 Chapel Rd Newtown Square, PA 19073 (Google Map)

Paesano’s is not just Girard Avenue’s favorite neighborhood spot anymore.  It is now openly celebrated as one of Philadelphia’s very best sandwich destinations, a draw for food tourists from around the region and beyond.  An extension of Chef Peter McAndrews’ classic Italian BYOB Modo Mio (itself a Best Of Philly winner for Prix Fixe), Paesano’s was named Best Of Philly Sandwich Shop and was named Glen Macnow’s overall winner of the Great Italian Hoagie Hunt.  We caught up with Chef McAndrews to find out where he goes from here.

Paesano’s opened with a simple mission: Chef McAndrews wanted a decent lunch place for himself and the Modo Mio staff.  When the space across the street from Modo Mio became available, Chef and his partner, Nathan Baynes, jumped in and started making food that is affordable with integrity, cooked in the Italian theme and style.  Chef McAndrews believed that sandwiches could be made with more taste and love than most other places; he explained that there are a thousand cheesesteaks, but probably only 30 that are good, that achieve harmony of meat, cheese, onions and bread. (for the record, Chef McAndrews likes his steak chopped.)  The results speak for themselves: “the best sandwich I’ve ever tasted,” and “my favorite sandwich place” are common refrains among customers, who line up down the street to get a bite at lunchtime.

An Italian cooked sandwich shop, not a traditional hoagie shop, Paesano’s uses Liscio’s hoagie rolls because they hold up to wet sandwiches better than other rolls.  And they cut off the ends of the bread because in Chef McAndrews’ view, no one wants to feel like they got shortchanged on ingredients because of that end.  But don’t worry – you’ll find the ends reemerge as bread crumbs across the street.  The sandwich names are largely based in the Italian language: Gustaio (lamb sausage) means “good taste”; Arista (roast pork) means “the best part of the pig”; Diavlo (spicy chicken) means “the devil”.  But Daddy Wad (the award winning Italian hoagie) has a decidedly different etymology: it was Chef McAndrews’ childhood nickname, befitting a self-described “big kid.”

The Daddy Wad’s coronation as Best Italian Hoagie has catapulted it to the top selling item at Paesano’s, displacing the Arista, a porchetta sandwich with broccoli rabe, Italian long hots, sharp provolone and natural jus.  The broth is the key to the flavor, according to the Chef, who sources locally-raised Lancaster suckling pigs (under 21 lbs).  The roast pork is topped with broccoli rabe that is cut properly for a sandwich (bite-sized) and enough sharp provolone to add that creamy, tangy burst of flavor.   The Gustaio, Paesano’s lamb sausage sandwich, is a harmonious balance of flavors: intense gorgonzola, sweet heat from the sundried cherry moustarda, hearty lamb, and sweet fennel on flatbread.  And the Tuscan Tony, Paesano’s decadent take on the Texas Tommy, serves up a fried hot dog wrapped in soppresata then smothered in Bolognese sauce.  With options for vegetarians and meat lovers alike, Paesano’s satisfies all comers.

The formula is working.  Customer service is personal, gracious and natural in its diverse, dynamic, integrated Northern Liberties neighborhood.  So it is clear why Chef McAndrews wants to keep things the same.  But with the surge in popularity, Paesano’s is struggling to keep up with the volume.  They need more space, and see a broader opportunity (including Center City) but are not in a hurry and want to make sure that any change is fully thought-through.  No matter what the future holds, it is clear that today, Paesano’s has found their niche and has earned their spot at the table among Philadelphia’s best sandwiches.

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Paesano’s
152 W Girard Ave, Philadelphia, PA 19123 (Google Map)

Submitted by Unbreaded reader Thad S.  Have a sandwich you love?  Submit it to us and we’ll post it on the site.

You have probably driven by this place on Snyder, near Target, and wondered what the deal was. It appears to be some sort of food shop built from the remains of an old auto supply store. I have been told by many of my friends that they, “always see it and think about stopping, but it’s never open.” Well, that’s because it isn’t ever open (at least when the average person is down in that neck of the woods). And the reason – because they don’t have to be.

John’s Roast Pork (aka John’s Lunch, The Snyder Avenue Lunch Bar, and The Shack), has been around since 1930, and has been a family run business for 3 generations, and it shows. The sandwiches are made with love (and grease), and they are divine. Although your only chance to eat there is Monday thru Friday 6:45 AM to 3 PM (the grill closes at 2:30), it is absolutely worth the journey to experience the best cheesesteak in Philadelphia. Wait, what?

Although the “John’s Roast Pork” name implies “hog” – it is, in fact, the beef that is the true magic. Now don’t get me wrong; I have, at a point in my life, called their roast pork italiano, with sharp provolone and sautéed spinach – an overly juicy, garlicky-peppery torpedo of flavor served on a fresh seeded Carangi roll from the South Philly Bakery – the best hot sandwich in the world, but I am afraid I have to relinquish the throne to their cheesesteak as the best in the land. You see, I am a very ethnocentric person, but I have been all over our great country, and I believe that Philadelphia makes the best sandwiches around. So, if this is the best cheesesteak in Philadelphia, (and if cheesesteaks are the pinnacle of sandwichery) then it obviously is the best hot sandwich in the world.

Let’s start with the line. Because there WILL be a line. In line, you will see construction workers, city workers, office suits, older folks (some of whom might have been eating there since the place opened), and a basic cultural sampling of the diversity Philadelphia has to offer. Except for the one thing EVERYONE there has in common. They are in the know. John’s is the type of place you don’t mind telling people about, because more than likely, they will not be able to find themselves there, thus making the line even longer, with any regularity. I admit, I don’t go as often as I would like, as I have a job and go to school, although I do plan my non-holiday days off around the sandwiches there. In doing so, I’ve discovered a secret that most people don’t know about – if you are ordering Roast Pork, you can jump ahead in line. The line is waiting for the grill. The cheesesteak grill. The pork will be sitting on the counter bubbling away in its juicy goodness, and so if that is your sandwich for the day, by all means, poke around ahead in line and you will get called up to the front like a coach calling the scrawny kid up from the end of the bench. However, if you are getting a cheesesteak, hold fast and know your order.

While you may wait for what seems like an eternity, just be patient, cheesesteak nirvana awaits. You might be bored and sweaty from standing in line, but make sure you have your specs in mind. Take note of all of the various awards, newspaper articles and old pictures, but keep an eye on the order girl because your time there will go faster than expected, and you’d better know what you are ordering when your number is up.

John’s cooks the steaks to order, and they use a cut of sirloin, unlike the typical ribeye found at many steak shops. He does not freeze the meat, rather chills it in the freezer to slice it, and then has individually wrapped bags of steak. The meat is heavenly. You can get it with sharp provolone too. I alternate between the sharp prov and American, but never whiz; add fried onions, sometimes mushrooms. The juicy steak, which drips with twice as much cheese as your ordinary joint puts out, is a perfect storm of tender meat, sweet onions, cheesy goodness and grease. Oh god that grease. The South Philly baked Carangi roll, tough and crispy on the outside, soft in the middle, gets gutted in order to cram the maximum filling inside. It holds up perfectly to the drippy, gooey task presented by both the steak and the pork, and makes John’s food, much like their store front, truly stand-alone. Two final words of advice: first, CASH and second, PATIENCE – let your sandwich sit for a few minutes. It really allows the flavors to meld, and reduces the chances of a molten cheese bite burning off your taste buds before you can savor the rest of your meat-packed masterpiece.

John’s Roast Pork
14 Snyder Ave Philadelphia, PA 19148 (Google Map)

In February we wrote about the return of Rick’s Steaks at a new location in the food court at the Bellevue. Yesterday, Rick Olivieri fired up the grill for the first time since leaving the Reading Terminal Market, over eight months ago. Loyal fans who at one point were unsure if Rick’s would ever return, lined up as Rick himself manned the register and the grill along with his original staff that’s been with him for years. After all the turmoil of leaving the RTM, Rick is just glad to be back in business, serving the community.

Rick, whose grandfather Pat invented the original steak sandwich, strongly believes the best way to order is whiz wit’, urging cheesesteak virgins to try the sandwich this way. He has always insisted that if they don’t like the gooey cheese sauce, they can exchange the sandwich, but in over 25 years, has never had anyone return unsatisfied. Still, locals favor their cheesesteak with provolone or American, which make up the majority of sandwiches sold each day. Each cheesesteak is made to order, with round, sliced (never chopped) ribeye steak served on a hoagie roll from Liscio’s Bakery.

Unfortunately, Rick wouldn’t divulge his second favorite cheesesteak, but did admit he tries the sandwiches all over, even when on vacation, and also indulges in a good Italian hoagie from South Philly once in awhile. When asked about the rising popularity of the roast pork sandwich, Rick emphasized the fact that although it’s delicious and gaining traction, it will forever be second to the cheesesteak as Philly’s favorite sandwich.

Besides serving up original and chicken cheesesteaks, the new Rick’s Steaks also serves a vegan option, plus an entire breakfast menu including sandwiches and omelettes. On June 25th a grand opening celebration will take place at the store with special guest appearances by Pennsylvania Governor Ed Rendell and longtime Rick’s fan Al Roker and more.

We’re glad to see a Philadelphia staple make a triumphant return and are even happier that there is finally a legitimate cheesesteak in Center City/Rittenhouse.

Rick’s Steaks
200 South Broad Street, Philadelphia, PA 19102 (Google Map)

Head about 30 miles North of Philadelphia and you’ll find Yardley, a sleepy town and home of The Original Landolfi’s Deli. The menu reads like a top 10 list of the best sandwiches you’ll find in South Philly, including Italian hoagies, roast pork, roast beef and even paninis. These guys even serve all of their sandwiches on seeded rolls from Sarcone’s Bakery. Owner Steve Landolfi works the front counter and makes the sandwiches every single day of the week.

One must make sure to order from the specialty sandwiches list on the menu, where you’ll find Landolfi’s greatest creations. The Fluffy Special is a veritable tour de force of meats: prosciutto, hot capicola and salami with sharp provolone and thinly sliced tomatoes. The portion of thick cut meat is generous and perfectly layered, with complimenting salty and spicy flavors that are soothed by the crisp tomato.

The Philly is a sandwich that debuted when the Phillies made the World Series in 2008. Landolfi’s roasts pork for hours then simmers it in jus, setting it into a roll with sharp provolone and perfectly cooked broccoli rabe. Although it might not top some of the original South Philly renditions, we are confident it is one of the best you’ll find outside the city.

The Original Landolfi’s Deli
35 Main Street Yardley, PA 19067 (Google Map)

The story of Frank Rocchino dates all the way back to the 1930′s when he first opened a small grocery and delicatessen in South Philly. Apparently one of the founding fathers of the Philadelphia sandwich, Frank’s shop never had a menu – he made every sandwich to order depending on what his customers asked for. Now thanks to Frank’s grandson Rob LaScala (owner of LaScala’s Restaurant) the legacy lives on in The Market at the Comcast Center. Fittingly named Frank’s Old-Style Philly Sandwiches, the menu is directly inspired by the creations of customers at the original deli.

The Italian Chicken Cutlet sandwich serves up breaded, fried and rough chopped chicken with a heaping portion of broccoli rabe, strips of roasted red peppers and melted shreds of provolone. The generous burst of garlicky green broccoli rabe was robust but not overpowering, and allowed the juicy chicken to stand on its own with a salty breaded exterior. Soft and sweet red peppers and the creamy melted provolone added a smooth and silky texture.

The Housemade Roast Pork is served with a choice of sauteed spinach or broccoli rabe and provolone cheese. Although the pork was perfectly cooked as if it had been simmering for hours, it was lacking in seasoning and that robust flavor I’ve come to expect from Philly roast pork sandwiches. I opted for the broccoli rabe and it was tender and marinated in olive oil and garlic with no bitterness present. All sandwiches are served on seeded rolls from Liscio’s.

Although Frank’s is not the be all and end all for Philly-style sandwiches, it most definitely serves up a choice selection for those in the Center City area who can’t make it out to the great South Philly spots.

Frank’s Old-Style Philly Sandwiches
1701 John F. Kennedy Boulevard Philadelphia, PA 19103 (Google Map)