Chicago’s “it” chef, Rick Bayless, has opened his first new restaurant in 20 years, and wouldn’t you know, it’s a sandwich shop.  The master of authentic Mexican cuisine has already earned his place among the nation’s most acclaimed chefs, but in opening Xoco, Chef Bayless wanted to offer the simple, fresh, affordable flavors reminiscent of Mexico’s street vendors.

Excerpts from the Chicago Tribune’s review:

It may not occur to all of Xoco’s customers that they are feasting at the most scrumptious bully pulpit in town. It may not immediately register that the jamon torta, made with Iowa La Quercia prosciutto, Wisconsin Otter Creek organic cheddar and a sourdough bread custom-developed by Labriola Bakery in Chicago, represents anything beyond a really tasty ham-and-cheese sandwich. But it will eventually.

Most tortas are baked to a crusty finish in a wood-burning oven. The bread is bolillo, a slow-fermented sourdough-like Mexican bread. A few tortas are made in a panini press, using a very similar but flatter bread called telera. The telera-made tortas are more crispy than crusty, as in the Cubana torta, a variation on a classic Cuban sandwich that’s so delicious (helped by fresh avocado and chipotle mustard) it outshines the real thing.

Among the wood-baked tortas, the woodland mushroom version, with its garlicky notes and Prairie Farm goat cheese, is sensational, as are the pepito, made with Tallgrass Beef shortribs, jack cheese and pickled jalapenos, and the excellent cochinita pibil, a pork torta served with a lethal habanero sauce on the side.

Chef Bayless is a vocal advocate for locally-sourced, sustainable foods and conscientious business practices.  He is a prolific blogger, tweeter, TV star and now, sandwich-maker.  Sandwiches are the vehicle through with great foods can be offered at lower prices, where people can experience new flavors without overdrawing their checking account.  And when a “can do whatever he wants” chef thinks so too, we get all warm and fuzzy inside.

Rick Bayless’ low-key Xoco delivers affordable excellence [Chicago Tribune]

Authenticity is everything for Xochitl’s Executive Chef Dionicio Jiminez.  These are the sandwiches you’d find at a neighborhood taqueria in Hispanic South Philadelphia , or if you went to Puebla, Mexico, about an hour south of Mexico City, where Chef Jiminez grew up.  Only the queso fresco would be somewhat different – Chef Jiminez notices a difference in the texture of the queso from Mexico and here in Philadelphia.  The local product is more like ricotta salata, and the Mexican is closer to mozzarella.

90% of late night customers order sandwiches.  Chef Jiminez describes them as good late night food because they are refreshing and light, not greasy or heavy.  Tortas are served on special-order bolillo bread, a soft but crusty oblong roll similar to a Portugese roll.  Each torta is filled with avocado, onion, black beans, lettuce, tomato and chipotle mayo; only the protein changes.  Filings for the tortas are prepared on a flat-top grill, very simply seasoned with salt and pepper.  Skirt steak from the entrée menu is cooked to medium and cut into small strips that are tender and not overly chewy.  Spicy crumbles of longaniza, a lighter alternative to chorizo, are rich and boldly flavorful.  The Queso Fresco is grilled on each side so it melts, but still has a hint of its crumbly texture.  The Chicken Milanese, simply dredged with fresh bread crumbs, is a milder flavor that allows the creamy, ripe avocado to shine. The result is a winning combination of flavors and textures.

Chef Jiminez has resisted calls to add sides; a sandwich on the plate is enough food.  (House-pickled jalapenos garnish each order.)  The sandwiches are big enough that many people end up taking half home.  On his own time, Chef usually makes giant mash-ups of several sandwiches on a single roll.  He also likes Pat’s for a cheesesteak and the veggie sandwich at Misconduct.

Xochitl offers a Thursday late night special menu: from 10 p.m. until 1 a.m., the restaurant serves “Staff Meal,” a late night menu in its lounge with all dishes under $8.  Every item on this menu is available for half-off the normal price.

Gallery

What We’re Eating takes a quick look at sandwiches the Unbreaded team can’t get enough of.

The average person might take one look at Taco Loco and keep walking. We don’t blame them – the RV which is situated on Washington Avenue at the edge of Jefferson Square Park is very unassuming. However, after a peek at the giant handwritten menu and the smell of the wafting Mexican flavors hits your nostrils, you realize something special lies within.

At closer inspection, the menu consists solely of tortas and tacos in many varieties including chicken, roast pork, chorizo, tongue and tripe. The pollo torta is prepared fresh and hot in minutes, and wrapped in foil feels like a miniature football or small child in your hands. The toasted bolillo roll is soft on the inside, with a slight saltiness that is inherent in many Mexican breads, with a spread of refried beans. Finely chopped chicken marinated in chili and other spices is slightly sweet with a spicy kick and topped with lettuce, tomato, chopped onions, avocado, halved jalapeño pepper and finished with a dollop of sour cream.

For me, a fat torta and ice cold Jarritos or glass bottle Coke makes for the perfect summer lunch. Have you been to Taco Loco? Let us know what you think in the comments.

Gallery

Taco Loco
4th Street and Washington Avenue Philadelphia, PA 19147 (Google Map)

The torta, a Mexican sandwich on a soft roll topped with a selection of different fillers from carne asada to tripe, is not the easiest to come by in certain areas. In Philadelphia your selection is exceptionally limited, but we’ve been told by readers and friends to check out Taqueria La Veracruzana on Washington Avenue. Being only a few steps from the Italian Market, Veracruzana has big shoes to fill; some of the best sandwiches in the city are located within a half mile radius.

The menu offers a traditional torta selection including pollo, chorizo and huevo revuelto con jamon (scrambled eggs with ham). We opted for the carnitas (before we knew about the flu) and watched a soap on Telemundo as we awaited its arrival. About ten minutes later we were presented with a beautifully crafted sandwich, a large mound of juicy pork topped with lettuce, tomato, avocado, a long jalapeno pepper and a slice of American cheese? Wait, what?! The thick cut, white American seriously threw us off, seemingly an after thought considering it was in no way melted, perhaps even cold.

That aside, we enjoyed the flavor of the meat, crispy yet tender and the avocado, fresh and creamy. Upon asking for hot sauce, we were presented with two, a smokey roja and cilantro-laden verde that both packed a spicy punch. The bread could best be described as an oblong kaiser roll, not a single employee could inform us from which bakery it was provided.

Although Veracruzana’s torta filled an empty void in our stomachs, we’ve yet to find an incredible version of the sandwich in the city. After being named Philadelphia Magazine’s Best of Philly for Mexican cuisine in 2002 and 2003 by, it seems that this spot has fallen by the wayside in recent years, but don’t neglect it entirely. Just make sure to lose the cheese before you bite in.

Taqueria La Veracruzana
908 Washington Avenue Philadelphia, PA 19147 (Google Map)