Unbreaded

Oyster House: Seafood And Sandwiches Are A Family Tradition

Oyster House, formerly Sansom Street Oyster House, is a modern seafood restaurant and oyster bar.  A Mom & Pop restaurant, in contrast to the chains that dot the landscape, Oyster House offers fresh, seasonal, local ingredients for the common person.  Owner Sam Mink calls the restaurant “a return to its roots,” serving comfort East coast seafood at a moderate price.  With Executive Chef Greg Ling in the kitchen, Oyster House’s menu changes daily, offering a wide selection of seafood in a comfortable, welcoming atmosphere full of charm and history.

Sam’s grandfather (also named Sam Mink) owned and operated Kelly’s seafood restaurant, a Philadelphia institution near City Hall, from the 40s until it was sold in the 70s.  In 1976, Sam’s father, David Mink, opened Sansom Street Oyster House with a simple vision: fresh seafood at a moderate price.  In 2000, David retired and sold the restaurant outside the Mink family.  But in 2008, the new owner’s financial trouble presented an opportunity for the Minks, who reacquired the restaurant and emerged in June 2009 with Sam and David managing the newly renovated and renamed Oyster House.

The 120-seat Oyster House has a cool gray rustic-industrial look that suits today’s restaurant culture.  It features reclaimed building materials, including marble pavers from Independence Mall, timbers from the Academy of Music and pendant lights from old ships.  The only color in the restaurant comes from the late Sam Mink’s antique Victorian oyster plates that adorn the walls.  (At one point, his 500+ plate collection was the largest in the world.)  Regulars from the old days have been returning to experience the restaurant’s rebirth, plus a new generation of customers in their 30s and 40s.

At lunch time, half of all customers order sandwiches, headlined by the New England-style Lobster Roll.  At $26, the lobster roll is ripe for ridicule; that is, until people learn what actually goes into it.  One and a half lobsters are packed into each sandwich.  Delivered (live) each day, Oyster House does have a tank so you can be sure the lobster is supremely fresh.  Steamed to prevent over-saturation, the lobsters are broken down and the sweet meat is mixed with a simple dressing of mayonnaise, celery, lemon, salt and pepper.  The chilled lobster salad contrasts the toasted and buttered potato roll, giving a bite that is tender, creamy, sweet and lightly crisp.  The hot dog bun is less traditional than the New England top-loader, but according to Chef Ling, they are still tinkering and experimenting with different buns to find the very best.

The Fried Clam Roll is reminiscent of a lobster shack in Maine.  Ipswich clams, also known as soft-shell steamers, are breaded in cornmeal and fried to a golden crisp.  Served in a heaping mound on the same potato bun as the lobster roll, the sandwich is dressed with a flavorful tartar sauce that includes capers, cornichons and red onions.  The size of the sandwich is a bit overwhelming, but the salty bits of clam and tangy tartar make it worth the extra effort.

The only non-seafood item on the menu is the burger, for which Oyster House has received glowing reviews from customers.  Dry-aged prime chuck, brisket and porterhouse are cut fine with steel blades – not ground – to preserve the flavor of the meat.  Served with tangy cabrales blue cheese, sweet grilled onions and a fried oyster on a brioche bun, the 6.5 ounce burger is bursting with juice and flavor.

Sam Mink, who returned to Philadelphia after nine years in San Francisco, and spent the last few years managing Jose Garces’ Amada and Distrito, is a self-professed tough critic of sandwiches.  His favorites: a panini from DiBruno’s or a hoagie from Sarcone’s.

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Oyster House
1516 Sansom Street, Philadelphia, PA 19102 (Google Map)