Unbreaded

Rustica: A Thin Line Between Pizza And Sandwiches

Imagine the smile on my face when Frank Maimone, owner of Rustica in Northern Liberties told me, “The thing about pizza is it’s really just a glorified sandwich.” Take a glance at the 18 or so specialty pies on the menu and you’ll realize that they are open faced translations of classic sandwiches and entrees (like the bacon, egg and cheese pizza or the kielbasa, kraut and mustard pizza.) Sandwiches are almost always a second thought at a good pizza shop, including Rustica, where seven out of ten customers order slices and whole pies. Still, Maimone doesn’t see sandwiches as second-rate citizens, and the creative combinations he’s come up with are all the proof we need.

This story begins with the rolls; hoagie in character, baguette in flavor, and dotted with sesame seeds, they were specially created for Rustica and are provided by Leonardo’s Italian Bakery. Maimone drew on his lifetime of experience in the food industry to craft the menu, along with his grandmother’s meatball recipe, and some recommendations from the staff. Although the sandwich’s personalities may be quirky, Maimone believes in simple ingredients, fresh produce that is sourced locally as well as meats and cheeses from Claudio’s on 9th Street. Of the thirty-plus sandwiches(!) offered, we tasted some of the top sellers.

The Bella embodies all that a summer sandwich should be: turkey and provolone is topped with zesty, fresh pico de gallo and an entire sliced avocado. The Italian is based on some of Maimone’s favorites, and packed full of genoa, capicola and prosciutto to fulfill his mantra that “your jaw should hurt” after working on a good hoagie. Many chopped, grilled chicken sandwiches adorn the menu, but the Enrico Soavé is the crown jewel of them all with garlic-kissed, slightly crunchy broccoli rabe, roasted red peppers and provolone cheese. We were thoroughly impressed with Rustica’s special cheesesteak the Tartufo, a combination of finely chopped ribeye, truffle cream, and caramelized onions which packed a new and inviting flavor.

Lines form and phones ring off the hook at Rustica during lunch and dinner for good reason, the restaurant has been serving delicious, exciting food in a friendly atmosphere for over eight years. Prices haven’t changed in some time, and Maimone doesn’t skimp on the food he serves, despite rising food costs. It’s a way of doing business that has brought regulars and new customers back again and again.

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Rustica
903 N. 2nd Street Philadelphia, PA 19123 (Google Map)