Unbreaded

Tortas At Xochitl (So-Cheet) Are So-Good

Authenticity is everything for Xochitl’s Executive Chef Dionicio Jiminez.  These are the sandwiches you’d find at a neighborhood taqueria in Hispanic South Philadelphia , or if you went to Puebla, Mexico, about an hour south of Mexico City, where Chef Jiminez grew up.  Only the queso fresco would be somewhat different – Chef Jiminez notices a difference in the texture of the queso from Mexico and here in Philadelphia.  The local product is more like ricotta salata, and the Mexican is closer to mozzarella.

90% of late night customers order sandwiches.  Chef Jiminez describes them as good late night food because they are refreshing and light, not greasy or heavy.  Tortas are served on special-order bolillo bread, a soft but crusty oblong roll similar to a Portugese roll.  Each torta is filled with avocado, onion, black beans, lettuce, tomato and chipotle mayo; only the protein changes.  Filings for the tortas are prepared on a flat-top grill, very simply seasoned with salt and pepper.  Skirt steak from the entrée menu is cooked to medium and cut into small strips that are tender and not overly chewy.  Spicy crumbles of longaniza, a lighter alternative to chorizo, are rich and boldly flavorful.  The Queso Fresco is grilled on each side so it melts, but still has a hint of its crumbly texture.  The Chicken Milanese, simply dredged with fresh bread crumbs, is a milder flavor that allows the creamy, ripe avocado to shine. The result is a winning combination of flavors and textures.

Chef Jiminez has resisted calls to add sides; a sandwich on the plate is enough food.  (House-pickled jalapenos garnish each order.)  The sandwiches are big enough that many people end up taking half home.  On his own time, Chef usually makes giant mash-ups of several sandwiches on a single roll.  He also likes Pat’s for a cheesesteak and the veggie sandwich at Misconduct.

Xochitl offers a Thursday late night special menu: from 10 p.m. until 1 a.m., the restaurant serves “Staff Meal,” a late night menu in its lounge with all dishes under $8.  Every item on this menu is available for half-off the normal price.

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Xochitl
408 S. 2nd St., Philadelphia, PA 19147 (Google Map)