Unbreaded

Ladder 15 Serves Up Sandwiches With Swagger

Unbreaded’s Ben Greenberg contributed to this review.

The shiny-new Ladder 15 has a warm, industrial feel and an imaginative menu that will surely transform this former working firehouse into a different kind of hot spot.  The 100-seat space is a combination of steel, brick, stone and rich mahogany, (and plasma behind the bar) complete with vaulted ceiling, fireplace, red walls and a striking custom chandelier.  Owner Max Tucker, who also owns Mad River restaurants, tapped friend Chef Mike Stollenwerk to design the menu.  Chef Stollenwerk, whose quaint Bella Vista Little Fish restaurant has received national acclaim, worked with Chef Ann Campbell (formerly at White Dog Café) to bring upscale pub fare to what Stollenwerk called “a sandwich obsessed city.”

What immediately caught our attention was their signature sandwich: corned beef on a Philly soft pretzel.  The lightly crisped pretzel braid was remarkably delicious and impossibly fresh (delivered from Philly Pretzel Factory next door) and did not overwhelm the sandwich.  The corned beef, made on site and served warm, was cut in paper-thin strips (though not especially lean), and paired with melted gruyere cheese.  A robust whole grain mustard added a sharp zing and in-your-face flavor.  One point of note, the sandwich meat was not the traditional red corned beef; it was brown and tasted more like a brisket than delicatessen-style corned beef.

The burger had a lot of good things going for it.  The prime sirloin was juicy and well-seasoned, with a rich and creamy smoked paprika mayonnaise, melted manchego cheese and a sweet red onion marmalade cooked in orange juice, balsamic vinegar and honey.  There was one element that they will still need to tweak: the bread. Served on thick-cut grilled sourdough, the bread was somewhat unwieldy and did not allow a comprehensive bite of the whole burger.  The kitchen is still getting its sea legs, so we hope they can work out that detail before the big crowds start to pour in.

The duck breast sandwich served up thinly sliced meat and melted brie on a large, hearty English muffin.  The meat was cooked to medium and very tender, not a dry hunk of breast as is often the case with duck entrees.  The execution and ample portion size far exceeds the price point on this sandwich.  The only opportunity to develop it further might be in the moustarda, which did not hold up to the brie.

The smoked mushroom VLT wins points for its dramatic presentation and for its fresh, vibrant taste.  Four pieces are stacked high and skewered, served on thick slices of Metropolitan Bakery multigrain bread.  The smoked portabello was moist and tender, yielding easily to the bite.  Juicy tomato, crisp lettuce and matchstick potato sticks rounded out the fillings, but the star of this show may very well be the mustard.  The spicy, vinegary twang really worked well with the hearty bread and fresh vegetables.

Overall, the sandwiches were well conceived and skillfully executed.  If they can maintain consistency with the details like keeping the meat moist and tender, and if they are able to solve their burger bread issue, Ladder 15 will definitely be a top sandwich bar.

Unbreaded’s Q&A With Mike Stollenwerk:

Unbreaded: Where did the pretzel sandwich come from?
Mike Stollenwerk:We wanted to create a signature Philadelphia sandwich that wasn’t a cheesesteak.  So a soft pretzel was the logical next step, and we get them fresh from our friends next door.

UB: Where do you like to go in Philadelphia to get sandwiches?
MS: John’s Roast Pork – the cheesesteak or the pork, they’re both the best.

UB: What kind of sandwich do you make for yourself at home?
MS: A nearly raw poached egg on toast with whatever kind of pork product I have on hand.

Gallery

Ladder 15
1528 Sansom Street, Philadelphia, PA 19102 (Google Map)