Unbreaded

Some Like it Hot: Borinquen’s Jibarito

Sometimes, two forces come together with just the right amount of seduction, and the unlikely elements fuse, erupting in a climax so intense that even the most staunch nihilist will moan, “God!” in testament. I’m speaking, of course, of Borinquen’s Jibarito- a delight literally invented at the Humbolt Park nook in Chicago, which has been satisfying- no- thoroughly pleasing, regulars and pilgrims on happy tabletops for 15 years. Borinquen’s jibarito is what would happen- well, what DID happen- when the sensuality of Puerto Rican cuisine penetrates Chicago comfort food, in a most alluring yet effortless embrace.

The magic is in the smooth but textured, moist but crisp, warm, fried plantains that lie firm on bottom and top, teasing you to ask, “bread who?” with every wet-mouthed bite. The signature plantains- topped with mounds of tangy garlic- envelop the spicy steak, cool lettuce, juicy tomato, creamy mayo, classic American cheese, served on a fluffy, inviting bed of arroz con gandules.

The first half I enjoyed naked- that is, without the homemade Jibara; a heavenly hot sauce where Chicago’s signature giardinera peppers tempt habanero and jalapeños to engage in the coyest of collaborations with Tabasco and cilantro. Curious as to the origin of “Jibara,” I was informed that the man who created it named it such after his adoration of his native Puerto Rican peasant women. The waitress shyly laughed and said she never understood why he did so, but given its fiery and inveigle elements, it seemed fitting as ever. My sound mind said to cut myself off after half, but that’s the thing about pleasure- it oft doesn’t rattle the head. And that second spicy Jibara-soaked half, well, it was worth the sweat.

I floated out of Borinquen feeling full, satisfied, and with a sly smirk on my face, having just committed a solo seemingly naughty act of unabashed pleasure. This time I went alone- just me and my jibarito. Perhaps next time I’ll bring a friend. I hear it’s more fun with three…

Borinquen Restaurant
1720 N California Avenue Chicago, IL 60647 (Google Map)

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